July – a time of peak flowering in the garden

Shrubs, herbaceous perennials, roses and sweet peas are looking fabulous and tubs of summer bedding and hanging baskets are in full bloom.

In the vegetable garden the first potatoes can be dug and broad beans, French beans, beetroots, early carrots and salad crops are ready to harvest. With the recent dry weather, onions and garlic have grown well and strawberries have produced lots of small fruit but are still delicious! Lettuce is a little more demanding though and has required daily watering.

July is a time to enjoy the garden rather than making any new major changes. Now that we have passed the longest day of the year the plants from the Northern Hemisphere have started to fade such as Delphiniums, Iris, Poppy and Lupins. These are replaced with plants originating nearer the equator like Dahlias, Rudbeckia, Heleniums, Echinacea, Crocosmia and Salvias giving colour and interest right through to the Autumn. There are also lots of variety of ornamental grasses to enjoy too with their interesting seed heads.

Watering

You may have spotted some gaps in the borders soil that is dry and hard and not suitable for cultivation. A great idea to overcome this is to plant up a container with some interesting summer plants such as bright yellow or orange crocosmia combined with blue Salvia. Why not add some dark-leaved Dahlia and ornamental grass for height and perhaps some trailing herbs cascading over the edge for further flower and foliage appeal? You can then stand the container in the gap for instant interest.

The summer so far has been hot and dry which is great for outdoor living but this can take its toll on our gardens. Your lawn may have turned dry and brown but don’t worry, it will soon recover when the rain returns. Even when it does rain though it is still a good idea to prioritise watering.

Concentrate on newly planted areas of the garden and use grass clippings as a mulch after watering to help seal in the moisture.  Be sure to check there are no grass seeds in the mix though as this will only add to weeding issues later on. Any organic matter such as garden compost, well-rotted manure and bags of soil improver can be used as a mulch to help retain moisture in the soil. Low growing, ground-cover plants can help prevent the heat of the sun from reaching the soil too.

Move pots and containers to a shadier spot to protect the roots and by placing them in groups of three this will also reduce the amount of heat exposure. Containers and pots require a good water at the base of the plant stem rather than a sprinkle over then top and you can also apply a thick layer of mulch to the surface of pots using horticulture grit or strulch (a mineralised straw product) to reduce water loss. The only down side to using a mulch is knowing when to water but you can test the moisture of the compost by using your finger. Don’t forget to dead head and feed pots and containers every 7 to 10 days too and have water buts ready to collect any rainfall.

Wildlife

During spells of hot weather, it is so important to provide a clean water source so that birds and animals can drink and bathe.  A pond is ideal but a shallow dish is also just as effective.  Always make sure there is easy access in and out of the water as small animals can drown. This can easily be done by placing a rock or large stick in the water to the side so that they can climb out easily if they fall in. You may have noticed bees around your pond or birdbath too. This is because they are collecting moisture to help them build nests. Lots of insects use this technique too so you will be helping so many species if water is provided.

July Plant Highlights

Hemerocallis or Day Lilies are an excellent plant for the garden with brilliant flowers in yellow, orange, reds, purple, lavender and pale pink. They are low maintenance and can tolerate drought and cold winters. This is because they are native to Asia and are thought to have been introduced by traders along the silk route. In 1753 they were given the botanic name of Hemerocallis by Carl Linnaeus, a Swedish naturalist. During the 19^th century botanists, gardeners and growers began crossing two species to produce the thousands of hybrids we see today.

Rudbeckia was another plant that tolerated last year’s heatwave, the flowers feature a raised central disc in black or green-brown shades surrounded by bright yellow or orange petals giving rise to its common name of Blackeyes Suzie or Cone Flower. Rudbeckia is native to North American prairies and requires moist well-drained soil in full sun. When planting, enrich the soil with plenty of organic matter. Depending on the variety, Rudbeckia can be an annual, biannual or perennial with heights ranging from 50cms to 300cms.

Heleniums, like Rudbeckia are a member of the Asteraceae family also originating from America and apparently named after Helen of Troy. The daisy- like flowers are yellow, orange or copper red and it requires moisture retentive soil in full sun and is commonly known as Sneezewort.

Agapanthus is exotic looking with large, loose balls of dark blue, blue, bicoloured or white blooms on strong stems above grass-like foliage. Each year many new varieties are introduced. It is ideal for growing in containers as restricted root growth produces more flowers and it can be easily moved under cover for protection during Winter.  As a guide, the wider and larger the leaf growth and flower size the less hardy the plant compared to the Headbourne hybrids. If you are growing it in borders use well-drained soil in a sunny sheltered position.

Penstemons provide spikes or colourful trumpet-shaped flowers in a range of colours including cream, wine-red, purple and blue. They also flower all summer so are excellent value for money. It was traditionally thought of as a cottage garden plant and looks fantastic growing with ornamental grasses or exotic foliage plants. It requires well drained, fertile soil in a sunny sheltered position and if you take some cuttings, it is easy to root. Keep it somewhere sheltered over Winter to protect it from frosts as this can kill the plant.

Crocosmia - there are hundreds of cultivars and hybrids all descended from a handful of species of this plant, that is native to Southern and Eastern Africa where they were found growing in grassland and at the edge of forests. Originally, when introduced into Britain it was know as Montbretia, a plant often seen in Devon and Cornwall as a garden escape that has since out-competed native plants and become invasive causing environmental issues.

New introductions have produced more manageable sized Crocosmia hybrids and cultivars. The plant is clump–forming with long grassy leaves and twin rows of buds that open into sprays of flowers from yellows to orange. One variety, Emily McKenzie, has orange flowers with brownish throats. It grows best in fertile, well-drained soil in a sunny sheltered location amongst grasses or with other hot bright coloured plants.

Lavenders are a plant for all gardens whether a cottage garden, formal herb garden or modern themed flower bed. Lavender Hidcote with violet flowers is an excellent plant for a dwarf hedge and for edging paths or borders. The grey foliage and perfumed flowers are loved by bees and pollinators. Lavender has been grown in gardens since around 1265 having been introduced from the Mediterranean.

Other plants to fill the July garden with colour include Echinacea’s, hardy Fuchsia’s, Hypericum, roses, clematis, honeysuckle and summer flowering Jasmine.

Gardening Jobs

Prune old fashioned roses, shrub roses and ramblers after flowering. Dead head faded flowers except those grown from Autumn hips. Cut just above a healthy leaf about 3cms or 8cms below an old flower head once the last flush of flowers is over. Feed with either rose feed or general-purpose feed. Water in well or use a liquid tomato feed which is high on potash supporting the development of new flower buds.

Regularly dead head bedding plants and perennials and cut out the old flowered stems of perennials such a s lupins, delphiniums and poppies as they go over.  Watering and feeding may result in further flowering in late summer.

Fruit and Vegetables

As early crops finish, apply fertiliser and lightly fork over the soil. Use the space for sowing carrots, lettuce, spring cabbage, turnips, Kohl rabi, Chinese cabbage, pak choi, rocket and radish. Vegetables, especially salad vegetables, grow fast and it is important to keep crops well-watered. Water runner beans regularly at the base and spray the foliage as this helps to increase humidity. By watering well this will help to prevent beans from growing tough and stringy. Harvest raspberries, red currents, gooseberries and blueberries. Tidy strawberry plants and grow new plants from the runners.

Don’t forget to plant up some seed potatoes - veg patio planters or jute potato planting bags for new potatoes on Christmas Day, use special autumn potatoes, Maris Peer, Pentland Javelin and Charlotte.

These are just a few ideas from the plant team if you need more ideas or tips, we are only too happy to help. From all the plant team, we wish you a fantastic summer and enjoy your gardens.

July Hints and Tips

We never know quite what the weather will be like in July, so when the sun shines, take every opportunity to get out and enjoy your garden. Most plants are in full bloom now, and there’s plenty to do to keep things looking good, whether it’s watering plants in dry spells, deadheading faded flowers or keeping on top of the weeding. And don’t forget to take some time to simply sit and appreciate all the results of your hard work!

View All Hints And Tips

Gardening during the hot weather...

 As the weather really starts to hot up, don’t just drag your barbecues out, blow up the paddling pool and dust off the sun lounger. Although all we simply want to do is soak up the sun as soon as it arrives, it’s really worth taking some time to get your garden in shape for the summer months.

Make sure your garden looks gorgeous for the time of year when it really becomes an extension of our indoor living space – another amazingly colourful room full of life for the whole family to enjoy.

Here are some summer garden jobs that are really worth taking the time to get done, so you can give your outdoor space the best chance of looking fantastic this season:

Loving your lawn

A neatly mown lawn is a joy to behold in an English summer garden, so make sure yours is in tip-top condition. By now, hopefully, you’ve re-sown any poor patches, aerated it to encourage root growth and given it a good scratch with a wire rake to allow light and water to reach the soil. However, it’s also a good idea to remove the most common lawn weed Trifolium repens, the white-flowering clover. Pull them out individually by ripping out the stems, as this will hopefully avoid the plants getting established. Remember to not mow less than 1cm height off your grass – cutting it too short will give you a far less healthy-looking lawn.

Banishing weeds

Keeping weeds at bay can seem like the never-ending task. If you are given or buy any plants always check them over before you introduce them to your garden, especially woody plants that ground elder, bindweed or couch grass are attracted to. In the lead up to summer, you want your garden looking it’s the best right from the pathways and walkways to the lawn and borders. If you do find you’re losing the battle and have missed the moment to tackle weeds as you find them, you may wish to call in the cavalry with a specifically designed weed control product.

Clearing out the shed

Over a long winter, you tend to stockpile a lot of odd bits which usually results in a chaotic mess that is in desperate need of order. If you love your garden shed then this should be a priority. I usually find the best method of doing this is to follow these simple steps:

• Remove everything from your shed.
• Sort all items into groups of ‘keep’ and ‘don’t keep’.
• Throw or give away everything in the ‘don’t keep’ group.
• Think about what you have left in comparison to the size you shed, and be ruthless about what to keep if you still have too much.
• Clean the inside of the empty shed.
• Place the remaining items back in the shed in a sensible organised order.

Cleaning the summer essentials

Barbecue

Depending on the type of barbecue you have in your garden, it can vary in difficulty to clean and will certainly vary in how much it is affected by harsh winter conditions. If you have a masonry barbecue you will have very little to do, however, you may have to remove any rust that has built up in wet conditions. If you have stored your barbecue away for the winter in might just be a case of a little spring clean and dusting down before inviting the family and friends over for a feast.

Garden furniture

If you have outdoor sofas and other items then you will have to make sure they are pristine for all of your summertime fun. It is recommended to take your cushions off any outdoor seating during winter, but if you forgot this year there are great ways to clean them with little hassle.

Paint and treat the fence

During the winter months, there is likely to be detrimental conditions for your garden fence. Before summer comes it is a great idea to give your fence a revitalised look of colour and health. Use a treatment such as Creosote to give it the extra protection it needs from those hot sunny days.

This all said, summer is definitely the time of year to really kick back and indulge in what you really love doing in the garden whether that be cooking, playing, drawing, sunbathing… all of which is enhanced by the work you do to make it a special place to spend time. The long days of light offer us the chance to really pick our own preferred hour to garden, whether that be 7 am in the morning or 9 pm at night. Do it at a time when it permits you to prioritise what you enjoy the most.

Next year, think about maybe not going away during the summer months because for sure you’ll be missing the best your garden has to give.

Planting Vegetables in April

What vegetables to plant in April

April is a busy and productive month in your vegetable garden. Whatever your culinary tastes or skill level, there are plenty of vegetables to plant in April.

Sow indoors in pots with warmth (windowsill, greenhouse or conservatory will all work well):

• Beans (for example runner beans or French beans)
• Marrow
• Courgette
• Squash
• Sweetcorn
• Cucumbers
• Aubergines
• Celery
• Celeriac
• Globe artichokes

Sow outside directly into well-prepared soil (containers, beds and borders will all work, whether in a garden or on a balcony):

• Beetroot
• Brussels Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrots
• Leeks
• Lettuce
• Onions
• Garlic
• Parsnips
• Potatoes
• Radishes
• Shallots
• Spinach
• Swiss chard
• Summer cauliflower
• Radish
• Peas

You should also chit and plant out second early potatoes at the beginning of the month to mid-April, whilst doing the same for maincrop potatoes from mid-April onwards.

What Vegetables to harvest in April

If you already have crops growing, or if you’re just interested to know what’s in season, the vegetables usually ready to harvest in April are:

• Purple sprouting broccoli
• Asparagus (when the spears are no more than 18cm tall)
• Rhubarb
• Radishes
• Spring onion
• Chard
• Leeks
• Kale
• Spring cauliflowers & cabbages
• Lettuce & rocket

Vegetable plant maintenance in April

• As the weather can be still a little on the cold side, protect any early outdoor sowings with horticultural fleece or polythene. Do this until you’re sure temperatures will stay above around 5-7°C at night.
• Support any pea plants – choose from sticks, mesh, green support or wire netting.
• Begin preparing runner bean supports for planting out in June.
• Try to thin out rows of seedlings where possible and as soon as they are big enough to be handled.
• Keep any carrots covered with a very fine mesh or a horticultural fleece. Make sure the edges are buried to keep out carrot root fly.
• Be aware of slugs and snails. Treat them if you’re already seeing the damage and put preventative measures in place before they can attack.

By the meteorological calendar, spring starts today!

By the meteorological calendar, spring starts today! And our our plant areas are beginning to fill with plenty of seasonal interest and colour.

Our March Hints and Tips are also now published!

In March, the days are noticeably longer, and it’s an opportunity to get out into the garden to enjoy some early spring sunshine. Frosts and sometimes windy weather mean that some tasks must wait, but there is optimism in the air with warmer weather and longer days ahead. As the weather gets warmer and plants start to wake up, so do pests and diseases, so it’s useful to make some early checks on the health of your garden.

Spring is here, and it’s time to get busy in the garden again.

Read Hints and Tips now by visiting https://www.bluediamond.gg/march-hints-tips 

The eagerly anticipated first cut of the season!

When it comes to the garden there is nothing better than a well-kept lawn to complement your planting. When you see a great lawn, if you’re always left wondering ‘why can’t my lawn be like that?’ read on….

The first mow of the season is vitally important and there are a few golden rules for getting the lawn of your dreams.

1. Preparation

Before you get started, make sure your lawnmower is in the best possible condition. Give it a thorough clean and replace any broken or worn parts. If your mower has metal blades ensure they’re sharp enough for the job and correctly adjusted.

2. Don’t cut too early

Once any maintenance has been done, you’re ready to get mowing. You should be looking to make the first cut around the beginning of March and for optimum results it is best to let the grass grow to between 4 and 5cm in length.

3. Don’t get too close

Many people have the misguided notion that if the grass is shaved off the lawn will look better and will not need mowing again for a longer period of time. In fact, cutting too closely only leads to quick deterioration of the sward and opens your lawn to invasion from weeds and moss. The ideal cutting height for most lawns is 2 to 2.5cm.

4. Avoid wet conditions

To get the best results take the ‘little and often’ approach to mowing, this will maintain the ideal length. You should also water and feed the grass when the weather is dry, and remember never to mow when the grass is wet – not that you’d want to – as this can severely damage the lawn.

5. Mix it up

Try to change direction every time you mow as continually going in one direction can have a detrimental effect. It is always best to remove the grass clippings from your lawnmower as often as possible. If you intend to compost, a useful tip is to save some newspaper and cardboard for use as layers – this will stop the grass rotting down into a soggy mess.

Fenruary Hints and Tips for the Garden

February is the last month of winter, and frequently the coldest. 

It’s the end of the dormant period for many plants, so the last opportunity to plant out perennials and fruit trees. 

Timing this is tricky, as the ground is sometimes too frozen to dig with a spade or garden fork. Even on days when it is too cold to work the soil, there is still time to finish pruning plants ready for them to start regrowing in spring.

Visit our monthly hints and tips now by visiting https://www.bluediamond.gg/february-hints-tips 

January Hints and Tips for the Garden

January is the start of an exciting new year in the garden. The weather may be cold, but if you look, you can see the first signs of spring outdoors, with bulbs poking up out of the ground and the days growing ever so slightly longer. Indoors there are seeds to sow, and January is also an ideal month to plant bare-root shrubs and trees. It’s time to get ready for a great year of gardening.

Read all of our January Hints and Tips now on our website at

https://www.bluediamond.gg/january-gardening-hints-tips

Frost damage

It's very cold out at the moment with many parts of the country covered in snow or severe ice and although many plants we grow in our gardens are tough as old boots, frost, cold weather and cold winds can be fatal to some plants. Typical frost- and cold-sensitive plants include most summer bedding plants and annual herbs, such as basil.

Temperatures below zero will always affect tender and cold-sensitive plants – and sometimes even hardy ones during prolonged periods of cold, or if they are grown in containers. Frost and excessive wetness at the roots can be a fatal combination.

Symptoms

New leaves are most prone to damage, which can cause complete dieback on tender plants or just severe leaf browning or blackening. Excessive severe cold can also kill the roots of plants – especially when growing in very wet or waterlogged soil or compost.

Damage occurs when the water in plant cells begins to freeze and expand – damaging the cell and rupturing the cell wall. These plants become limp, blackened and often turn brown or slightly translucent.

During particularly long spells of very cold weather, even hardy plants and evergreens can become damaged when the soil becomes frozen and their roots are unable to take up water.

Treatment and control

If your plants are damaged by frost, there is still a chance that they will survive and become healthy again. However, trying to avoid frost damage in the first place is advisable.

If frost has damaged your plants, then:

• Cut back frost-affected stems to undamaged buds or growth points – this will encourage new growth.
• In the spring, once the risk of frost has passed, feed your plants to promote healthy growth.
• Smaller plants can be dug up and moved into a greenhouse or on a windowsill – often this will encourage a full recovery if the damage has not been too severe.

Try to avoid frost damage by protecting your plants when severe cold weather is forecasted:

• When buying pots and containers for your patio, ensure they are frost proof to avoid cracking. These will benefit from additional insulation from fleece or bubble wrap.
• Avoid planting tender plants in frost pockets – these are the areas that are lowest in your garden where cold air will descend.
• Mulch soils with bark, manure or straw to stop it freezing, causing root damage and preventing water uptake.
• Protect the crowns (central growing point) of ferns and palms with fleece or straw. Tie the leaves together to stop snow and rain freezing in these delicate growth points.
• Plant out tender plants when all risk of frost is over at the end of May or beginning of June depending on location.
• Improve drainage of soil to prevent waterlogging.
• Don’t feed plants in winter, as soft new growth is more susceptible to frost damage.
• Harden up slightly tender plants by feeding with sulphate of potash in early autumn.

December Gardening Hints & Tips

Looking for jobs to do in the garden in December? 

As well as protecting plants from frost with insulation around, you could also use bubble wrap, which is ideal if you have any left over from Christmas presents. 

Hint - ask for new garden tools or a lawn mower! 

Don't forget to clear debris - this is vital to prevent slugs and snails from setting up home in those lovely warm and damp conditions.

So, what other gardening jobs should we be doing in December?

Our new December Hints & Tips is now available - please visit

https://www.bluediamond.gg/december-hints-tips 

Festive House Plant Care Guide

How to care for Poinsettia

No Christmas home is complete without a Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrina), with their colourful, brightly coloured bracts they add a festive feel to your home and make an ideal present.

• Cold conditions and draughts damage the foliage on these plants, so be careful where you position them in your home. For example, allowing the leaves to touch a cold window will cause leaf drop.

• To keep it blooming, the temperature should be a minimum of 13 °C -15°C and up to 18°C during the day.

• They like indirect sunlight, so near to a sunny window sill, free from draught, in a warm room is ideal.

• Water your poinsettia when the soil feels dry to touch or just pick up the pot, if it’s light, it will need watering.

• Do not let it sit in water in the saucer. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill your poinsettia.

How to care for Cyclamen

Indoor cyclamen flower profusely through the festive period. With showy blooms in shades of red, white and pink, they form an essential part of any Christmas display.

• Cyclamen are easy to grow with a little care and will flower for six to eight weeks.

• They are happy in cooler bright rooms.

• Keep away from direct sunlight.

• Water when the soil begins to feel dry and directly into the soil, avoiding direct contact with the leaves and stems.

• Deadhead regularly by tugging them away gently as this will prolong flowering.

How to care for Amaryllis

The word Amaryllis means ‘to sparkle’ and it certainly does that! Amaryllis are popular at Christmas due to the colourful blooms. It’s also a traditional gift for your loved ones and can even bloom on Christmas day.

• Amaryllis are best suited to indirect sunlight / part shade. Too much sunlight can burn the foliage, however not enough, may reduce the flowering period.

• It’s a tropical plant and loves a warm temperature of approx. 20C. Once the leaves and bud have emerged, you can move it somewhere cooler.

• When initially planting the bulb, water it thoroughly. After this water less often until the growth starts to appear. Keep the soil moist but not water logged.

Tips to Make a Christmas Tree Last Longer

Choose an appropriate location for your Christmas tree

An important part of how to make a Christmas tree last longer is to choose a good location in your house. Place the tree away from heating vents or cold drafts. Constant heat or fluctuating temperatures can speed the drying out of a tree. Also avoid placing the tree in direct, strong sunlight. The sunlight can also make the tree fade faster.

Watering your Christmas tree

It is essential to how to keep a Christmas tree alive that once you cut the trunk of the Christmas tree, the cut has to stay moist. Make sure to fill the stand immediately after you cut the trunk. But, if you forget, most trees will be ok if you fill the stand within 24 hours. But your Christmas tree will stay fresh longer if you fill it as soon as possible. If you want to make a Christmas tree last longer, just use plain water. Studies have shown that plain water will work as well to keep a Christmas tree alive as anything added to the water. Check the Christmas tree stand twice a day as long as the tree is up. It is important that the stand stays filled. A Christmas tree stand normally holds a rather small amount of water and a Christmas tree can quickly use up the water in the stand.

Recutting the stem on the Christmas tree

When caring for a live Christmas tree, remember a Christmas tree is essentially a giant cut flower. Unless you cut your own Christmas tree, the vascular system that draws water up into the Christmas tree will have clogged. Cutting off just a ¼ inch of the bottom of the trunk will remove the clogs and open up the vascular system again. You can cut more off if you need to for height reasons. Many people wonder if there is a special way to cut the trunk to help with keeping your Christmas tree fresh. A simple straight cut is all that is needed. Drilling holes or cutting at angles will not improve how well the Christmas tree takes up water.

Read more, watch the video and find out about our tree guarantee https://www.bluediamond.gg/realtrees 

Guide to Decorating your Christmas Tree

The mulled wine is on the hob and Bing Crosby is on the speakers, which can only mean one thing - it’s time to decorate the Christmas tree. One of the highlights of the festive season, it’s something all the family can get involved in, from picking up the tree to adding the final bauble. Here are some of our tips for making your tree look full, twinkly and full of Christmas magic.

Step 1

To begin, decide on the lights you want to use on your tree. If your theme is traditional, white lights will give you a classic and inviting look, whilst coloured lights work really well with more contemporary and modern themes. Begin draping your lights in a spiral, working from the very top of the tree to the bottom. Make sure you push the lights into the foliage to hide wires and create depth. Depending on how big the tree is, you may need two or three packs of 100 lights. Plenty of twinkling fairy lights is one of the secrets to a spectacular Christmas tree.

As a general rule, you should use 100 lights for every foot of your tree. For example, if you have a 6ft tree then you should aim to decorate with 600 lights, 700 for a 7ft, and so on and so forth. You can always add more if you're looking to create a dazzling effect.

Step 2 

Next, add ribbons, garlands, string beads or tinsel at this point. Mix and match different sizes and textures to add interest and help the tree look full. Thick organza ribbons look great towards the bottom of the tree, whilst you can drape more delicate beads around the top branches. Here is where your festive theme starts to creep in - using accenting tinsel to your baubles is a simple way to add interest and depth to your Christmas decor.

Step 3 

Now you can add your ornaments and baubles to the tree. It’s worth investing in a few packs of generic, ‘filler’ baubles to help fill out the tree and create a luxurious, full look. Baubles are a great way to add drama or bold statements, but if you prefer a simpler look, then glass or plain solid colour baubles are a lovely choice too.

You can then add your favourite ornaments in prominent places on the tree to stand out.  Place the baubles systematically around the tree, either side to side or top to bottom - this helps you space them more evenly.

Step 4

Finish off your tree with clip on decorations, such as birds, foliage or reindeer, and of course your tree topper of choice. Remember: the best way to decorate a Christmas tree is to do so to your tastes and interests, rather than what you think a Christmas tree should look like. Now, your tree should look beautifully decorated, full of sparkling lights and magical baubles. Grab yourself a nice mulled wine, sit back, and enjoy your handy work!